Carbonix Bow Sprit for Mach 2

$2,972.73 (Ex. Tax)
$3,270.00 (Inc. Tax)
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Sculpted shape to blend into existing hull, minimising windage and spray drag.
One-piece prepreg construction, comes in natural finish, can be clearcoated (with or without coloured tint), or painted at extra cost.
Mechanism with plastic ball races and gearing adjustment.
Telescopic wand.
Titanium pushrod with connectors to mate with existing foredeck pushrod.
Supplied with deck plate compatible with existing bow mech studs, angle and position of sprit can be adjusted for each boat.
No permanent mods to boat, and removable for transport.
Compatible with soft forestay adjustment setup.


- Bolt on the deck plate using the existing bow mechanism studs.
- Then bond the main bowsprit moulding to the upturned sides of the plate.
This lets you position and align the bowsprit exactly to suit your particular boat.
Care must be taken to apply release agent or tape to the boat so the sprit only bonds to the plate.
  - Then you will need to locate and cut holes in the sides of the bowsprit moulding for the forestay pin, forestay strop, and access to the nuts holding the plate on.

The process is to bolt the plate to the boat, mask off the sides of the hull and the front edge of the foredeck, then glue the sprit to the plate.
At this stage you can fine tune the up/down angle of the front tip of the sprit.
It is a good idea to have the pushrods in place at this stage so you can make sure the run is unobstructed.
Usually the pushrod sits just above the transverse pin for the forestay shackle.
Most people delete the shackle and extend the pin to pass through from one side of the bowsprit to the other, with an external nut.
Then the pin helps keep the boswprt in place, and the forestay can connect to a strop that picks up the pin between the sprit skin and the tang on each side.

It is a bit fiddly, but this is driven by the desire to keep the boat unmodified.
If you are happy to drill holes in the bow, then you can delete the deck plate, and use screws into the sides to hold the main moulding in place.


For maintenance, it is really important to keep the metal parts of the mechanism liberally covered in lubricant/oil as there are dissimilar metals in there which will corrode in salt water.
Also wash regularly to keep crap out of the ball races. We have spare ball races in stock and they are only $60 each, so easy to swap them if they wear or get damaged.
To add a bit of strength and streamlining, tape the edges of the moulding to the hull and foredeck with Protect tape, stickyback Dacron or similar. Leave a gap at the bottom/front for drainage.
Some like to run the wand length controls into the foredeck utility tube through holes in the side of the bowsprit. As long as the holes are in the middle of the vertical face, no more than 3mm in diametre, and at least 5mm apart, that should be fine.


1) Take off the wand holder (metal piece on right held in place by friction screw in arc shaped slot at top). This gives access to the main swivel bolt head.
2) Take out main pivot bolt and port side ball race to give access to the three small screws you can see in Assembly2.jpg attached.
3) Loosen the three small screws. That will allow the central part of the mechanism (the one attached to the pushrod) to float free in the bowsprit. The housing for the Z adjustor screw is in too halves, with small bronze bushings top and bottom. Best to leave the three small screws in place to hold the two halves together, but back them off to disengage from the starboard side of the mechanism.
4) Through the access holes in the top of the sprit moulding, remove the two rear screws and the four nuts on the studs on the foredeck shelf. When putting back the rear screws apply Sika as the holes they screw into open to the hull. Also take care as they are tapped in carbon so can damage the thread if over tightened. Handy trick here is to put Vaseline or plasticine on the screwdriver/socket so the screws/nuts don't fall away.
5) Lift the bowsprit off the foredeck studs and slide it forward. The central part of the front fitting should slide out with the pushrod as the sprit is pulled away. If it feels like it will jam, make sure it is aligned horizontally and try again.

Current lead time is four to six weeks.